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March 2017
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CHOOSING THE COLOURS

Harmonising the colours of ones make-up with those of the skin, hair or clothing is fundamental to obtaining a great, aesthetic result. Before giving you some advice, it is necessary to know which are the so-called ‘warm’ and ‘cold’ colours.

Tinte calde
Warm colour palette

Tinte fredde
Cold colour palette

The secret is not to mix warm colours with cold tones: the result could be terrible!!

The combination of ‘complimentary colours’ is the best option:
 



Cerchio cromatico Itten

Itten’s colour circle




Itten’s chromatic circle

All the colours in the circle can be made by mixing the three primary colours (yellow, red and blue) in different quantities.
Itten’s circle allows us to determine what the result of mixing one colour with another will be and what the complementary colour for each one is.
By mixing the primary colours together in pairs it is possible to obtain the three secondary colours: green, orange and purple.
The exterior of the circle, which is divided into twelve parts, is made up of the primary, secondary and tertiary colours which are created by further combinations of colours; an example is: green+yellow = yellow-green.
Complementary colours are those that are directly opposite one another in the chromatic circle and when mixed would make grey (for example, blue+orange, yellow+purple, red+green).

So, if one wants to enhance the colour of the eyes (for example, let’s say one has blue eyes) an eye shadow of the complementary colour should be used (apricot-orange). Green eyes work best with a combination of the colours plum, mauve and violet. When putting make-up on brown eyes, almost all the colours from gold-brown to orange work well as well as colours from grey-green to grey-blue and various shades of green. The same goes for darker eyes, but be sure to avoid very light and mother-of-pearl shades because they tend to make the white part of dark eyes look yellow. Intense and strong tones will, therefore, be preferable.
In order to choose the colours of our make-up well, it could be a good idea to coordinate them with the colours we are wearing, or consider the idea of trying to keep them similar to our facial colouring: by doing this you feel at ease, it is catchy, it brightens the face... just putting various coloured scarves close to the face is enough to see what colours work for you!

The rule for using complementary colours is also valid when choosing the colour of a lipstick: to enhance the lips, choose the complimentary colour of the eyes.

But be careful:

1. A violet or mauve lipstick can make the teeth look yellow.
2. Dark brown, chocolate or plum lipsticks can create an unpleasant effect that makes you look pale and bruised and could make you look older.
3. Dark tones make paleness more evident.
4. Black and dark brown make the white of the eyes stand out.
5. Golden, silver and metallic tones, although in fashion, are hard to pull off, particularly in the day and for those who are naturally light-skinned.
6. Colour must only be applied to the parts of the face that move: the eyes, the lips and the cheekbones!
7. If the make-up particularly makes the eyes stand out, the lipstick should be applied lightly so they contrast.
8. Keep in mind that daylight is ‘cold’ and the light in the evening is ‘warm’.

Ultimately, there are two main types of make-up:
- Neutral make-up, that uses and works with ones natural colouring: it is simple and can be more sophisticated;

- Coloured make-up, that will be different from ones natural colouring and will harmonise with the colour of the irises or with ones clothing: this type of make-up can also be more simple and sophisticated.  

NEUTRAL MAKE-UP

Natural, neutral make-up:

1. Apply a light shade of foundation or tinted moisturiser.
2. Correct any imperfections (any smudges, missed areas...).
3. Apply mascara in such a way that it makes the eyes stand out (for those with blonde hair, use dark brown mascara, and those with brunette hair, use a chestnut colour, a red or a black mascara).
4. Apply a touch of blusher to the cheek bones (always use light shades, like coral).
5. Finally, apply some lip gloss or a lipstick that is slightly lighter than the colour of the lips.

trucco naturale

A natural look

trucco più sofisticato

A more sophisticated look


Sophisticated, neutral make-up:

  1. Apply a very natural coloured foundation;
  2. Correct any imperfections;
  3. Fix the foundation with a layer of powder;
  4. Outline the eyes with a sharp, brown eye pencil;
  5. Apply a touch of light coloured eye shadow (a pink-beige/peach/light brown/pale grey or charcoal);
  6. Apply some mascara to make the eyes stand out even more;
  7. If necessary, fill in the eyebrows;
  8. Apply some blusher;
  9. Outline the lips with a pink lip liner;
  10. Apply a beige-brown lipstick

COLOURED MAKE-UP

Natural, coloured make-up:

1. Use a colour on the eyes that is the same shade as the irises.
2. For the lips, apply a coral-pink lipstick.
3. Apply a blusher that is the same shade as the lipstick.


Sophisticated, coloured make-up:

1. Apply an eye shadow that is a complementary colour of the irises.
2. Play around with the contrast of chiaroscuro (light and dark).
3. Use an intense colour on the lips.
4. Apply a blusher that coordinates with the lipstick.

trucco naturale

A natural look 

trucco più sofisticato

A more sophisticated look

CHOOSING THE COLOURS

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